Khmers art : sculptures and bas-reliefs

From the trip to Angkor, I start to appreciate the beauty of Khmers art in particular its sculptures and bas-reliefs.  When the Frenchmen rediscovered Angkor Wat in the tropical forest, they were surprised to find the magnificent stone architecture full of sculptures and bas-reliefs that they could not comprehend.  After decades of studies by archaeologists and historians, they now understand that Khmers art and architecture had evolved more than ten centuries of development to reach its peak in the 12th to 14th Century A.D.

Instead of marble, Cambodia has abundant supply of sandstone.  Skillful Khmers craftsmen had made use of high quality pink and black sandstone and turned them into some of the master pieces of Khmers art.  Early in the Cambodian history, Indian sea traders had came to do business with Khmers.  They also introduced their religion and culture to the locals.  Thus, we can find many Khmers sculptures and bas-reliefs about Brahma religion and stories.  

(The whole Banteay Srei was built by pink sandstone and volcanic stone) 

(Beautiful bas-relief on pink sandstone of over 12 centuries old)

Most of the historical Khmers temples were commissioned by kings and nobles for religious and political purposes.  Sculptures and bas-reliefs were used to communicate the Khmers beliefs and messages.  Besides the Hindu gods and later Buddha, many of the Khmers temples were richly decorated with apsaras. 

(Apsaras at the entrance of Angkor Wat)

(Apsaras at the Ta Prohm temple)

(Goddess in the wall of  Banteay Srei) 

In Angkor Wat and Bayon, there are beautiful stone bas-reliefs in their walled galleries.  These bas-reliefs communicated not only the religion stories and the victories of their Khmers kings, they also demonstrated aspects of Khmers life.

(Epics of the Battle of Lanka)

(Khmers soldiers going for war together with war elephants)

(Khmers hunters and fishmen)

If you are also interested in the Khmers art, you should not miss the Angkor Museum and the National Museum in Phnom Penh.  In case you are not in Cambodia, you can read Jessup. Helen Ibbitson and Thierry Zephir (ed.). Sculpture of Angkor and ancient Cambodia millennium of glory. London: Thames and Hudson, 1997.  This book can show you some of the master pieces of Khmers art kept in Cambodia, France and USA.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia : one of the World's Seven Wonders

The rediscovery of Angkor Wat in the center of Cambodian plain by the Western world in the nineteenth century had created a lot of interests and attention.  Angkor Wat was built by the Khmer Empire under King Suryavarman II nine centuries ago.  After the downfall of the Khmer Empire in the sixteenth century, Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples were laid ruin under the approaching tropical forest.  Even though local Khmer were aware of their existence, Angkor Wat was unknown to the West.  Until 1860 a young Frenchman Henri Mouhot made his venture into this medieval site.  Since then, the French colonists and archaeologists reclaimed Angkor Wat from the forest.

(Angkor Wat with its reflection in the water pond)

(Angkor Wat is very beautiful in particular during sunrise)

Besides Angkor Wat, there were several hundreds of temples built by the Khmer in the Angkor area and the central Cambodia plain during the eighth to the thirteenth centuries.  Hinduism first established its cultural roots in Cambodia and then followed by Buddhism.  These temples were built by the Khmer kings and nobles with mix of Hinduism and Buddhism.  

Another great Khmer architecture in Angkor is the Bayon temple built by the King Jayavarman VII.  A series of building projects in the capital, Angkor, were commissioned by this powerful Khmer King. This possibly represents the prime time of the Khmer Empire which had extended its territories into nowadays Vietnam and Thailand.

(At the entrance gate of the Bayon)

(One of the Bayon's face towers - totally 54 towers, each depicted with four faces)

Archaeologist teams from Cambodia and many foreign countries have been working in Angkor in the past decades trying to restore and to protect these Khmer art and architecture.  Many of them are still lying ruin inside the tropical forest.  It is interested to see the strength of nature.  As time past, nature can reclaim its territories from human establishments.

(Tree standing on the ruin of Ta Prohm)

(Tourists taking picture in the "Lost City")

After the glory days of Khmer Empire, Cambodia had fallen into hands of external colonial aggressions, including Thailand, Vietnam, France and Japan. Local Cambodian had underwent great hardship during the civil war with its Khmer Rouge.  The terrible experience with the "killing field" still remains with those survivors.  

Local village live has now returned to its old way.  It seems that the only change is curious tourists around.


  

Persian art and architecture : beauty of form and color

The rich culture of Persia and the skillful hands of Persian masters create beautiful art and architecture.  Persia was well placed at the middle of the ancient silk roads between the East and the West civilizations.  Through centuries of cultural exchanges, Persian art gained its mastery and also made significant impacts on others.

Among various Persian handicrafts, Persian carpet and tableware are my favorites. They are not only skillfully made with beautiful designs but are also decorated with colors in harmony.  High quality items are expensive as they command high artistic value.

(Fine Persian carpet with life tree design)

    

(Beautiful plates with lapis lazuli color)

With long Islamic tradition, mosques are the most important architectures in Iran.  Over the years, many masters and architects built beautiful mosques in different Iranian cities.  Their beautiful domes and minarets shine over the city sky. 


(Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan)

 

(Grand interior design of  the Lotfollah Mosque)

If you are in Isfahan, Naghs-e Jahan Square is the place you must see.  In the square, you can see jewels of Safavid architecture: the Lotfollah Mosque and the Shah Mosque. These great works were built over five hundred years ago.  Their grand design and beautiful decorations of stucco and mosaic tiles still command high status among the Islamic architecture.

(Geometric designs of mosaic tiles)

Just after seeing a few examples of Persian art and architecture, you will note that they are rich in geometric design. There are meanings behind the Islamic patterns.  The three basic shapes are used to symbolize:
  - the square of earth or materiality,
  - the triangle of human consciousness, and
  - the hexagon (or circle) of Heaven.

Nature light is also used to enrich the architecture design.  Similar to the rose windows in Catholic churches, color glass of beautiful patterns is commonly used in Persian houses.

(House windows with colorful glass)

Persian garden : paradise of the world

Iranians love garden.  Besides mosque, garden is probably the most popular place for Iranians.  Their strong appreciation of garden can be explained by its geographical environment.  Most of Iran is on the plateau surrounded by mountains and deserts. With limited rainfall, most of the land is bleak and dreary except the short Spring time. Inside the garden, its foliage and fountain give people the sense of peace, security and abundance.

(Iran plateau)

Development of Persian garden begun several thousand years ago.  Ancient Persian invented the qanat system to collect underground water for drinking and cultivation.  Precious water is regarded as source of life.  The most common feature of a Persian garden is water stream in its center with tree lanes on both sides.  Even better is to have water fountains along the way.

(Dowlat Abad Garden, Yazd)

Tall trees are planted in the garden to provide privacy and security from outside.  Iranians also like to have fruit trees, palm trees, roses and other flowers in their gardens. 

(Eram Garden, Shiraz)

Most of the historical palaces or summer houses of Iranian kings have gardens.  For example, Shah Abbas II  built his Chehel Sotoun Palace with a huge pavilion in the middle of his garden with a long pool. The pavilion of twenty columns is called forty columns pavilion due to water refection.

(Chehel Sotoun in Isfahan and its "forty columns" pavilion) 

During our tour of Iran, we have visited more than six Persian gardens.  One of the most interested one is the Fin Garden in Kashan.  Crystal clear water is channeled through the garden.  With the difference in levels within the garden, non-stop water stream and fountains make the garden full of life.

(Fin Garden, Kashan)

(Water fountain in each junction of the garden paths)

(Beautiful decoration in the Fin Garden)

The Iranian vision of garden as paradise has permeated their thinking, arts and poems.  Hafez is one of the most famous Iranian poets.  He wrote a poem titled "one rose is enough".  Below is the translation by Robert Bly.

One rosy face from the world's garden for us is enough,
And the shade of that one cypress in the field
Strolling along gracefully for us is enough.

I want to be far away from people whose words
And deeds don't match.  Among the morose and heavy-
Hearted, a heavy glass of wine for us is enough.

Some people say that good deeds will earn them
A gated house in heaven.  Being rakes and natural beggars,
A room in the tavern for us is enough.

Sit down beside the stream sometime and watch
Life flow past.  That brief hint of this world
That passes by so swiftly for us is enough.

Look at the flow of money and the suffering
Of the world.  If this glimpse of profit and loss
Is not enough for you, for us it is enough.

The dearest companion of all is here.  What
Else is there to look for?  The delight of a few words
With the soul friend for us enough.

Don't send me away from your door, oh, God,
Even to Paradise.  Your alleyway, compared,
To all space and time, for us is enough.

It's inappropriate, Hafez, for you to complain
Of your gifts from Fate.  Your nature is like water;
Your beautifully flowing poems for us are enough.

Persepolis, Iran : past glory of the ancient Persian Empire

In 1971, just few years before his down fall, Mohammad Reza of the last Pahlavi Shah hosted the 2500th year celebration of the Persian Empire in Persepolis.  Foreign royals and distinguished guests were invited to attend the event.  Many millions of dollars were spent on the celebration just to make good impression on the Iranian people and foreign guests. This is one of the last acts that Mohammad Reza tried to hold onto his power through the memory of the Persian Empire.

Last month, my wife and I made our first trip to Iran.  Persepolis was definitely one of the highlights for our tour.  More than 2500 years ago, the Achaemenids created a vast empire across Central Asia, Turkey, Egypt and India. They also built a grand ceremonial palace in Persepolis to receive tribunes from different people and tribes of the empire. The palace was built on the foot of Mountain Mercy over a large terrace of 125,000 square meters.  When we saw it nowadays, we could still feel its greatness.

(The Apadana Courtyard of Persepolis)

 
Most visitors will enter the palace through its north-west stairway and the Gate of All Lands.  Right away, visitors will be impressed by the stone guardian bulls of the doorway.  Each guardian bull has eagle wings, bull body and human head. 

(The Gate of All Lands)

You can image that tribal people from afar in the Persian empire were led through the Gate of All Lands.  They waited in patience until the Persian guards led them to the Audience Palace in the Apadana Courtyard.  With their gifts in their hands, they were deeply impressed by the facades and panels along the way.

(Stone panel with Darius the Great on top and Persian guards below)

(Stairway façade showing the lion goring the bull)

Despite the passage of time, many huge stone columns are still found standing in the palace.  Although the roof had long collapsed and disappeared, we can still find huge stone column capitals of different animals.  Many of them are preserved on site and many of them are housed in museums. 

(Double-headed eagle capital)

(Double-headed bull capital in the National Museum, Tehran)

Along the stairways around the Apadana, there are beautiful facades of Persian guards and gift-bearing delegations.  Historians and archaeologists have identified more than 23 different groups of tribal people in these facades, including Armenians, Egyptians, Arabs, Scythians, Indians and even Ethiopians.  Their gift items  and animals, including lamps, bulls, horses and lions, can still be seen clearly in the facades.

(Persian guards on the stairway)



(Gift-bearing delegations led by guards)

After the religious revolution, the West has an unfair image of Iran.  During our visit, we have interacted with different local people.  They are friendly and are eager to communicate with foreign visitors.  They are also proud of their heritage and culture.  From what we have experienced and seen, we definitely agree.

If you are interested to know more about the ancient Persian empire, you can read Allen, Lindsay. The Persian Empire: a history. London: The British Museum Press, 2005.

Chantilly, France : the Grand Chateau

France has hundreds of chateaus that were built by its kings, princes, nobles and wealthy families in the past centuries. Many of them are still maintained in their graceful state.  Along the Lori Valley and around Paris, you can visit these beautiful chateaus.  I have been to five of them, including the famous Chateau of Versailles.  Recently, my wife and I visited the Grand Chateau in Chantilly.  Its architectural beauty and rich cultural contents are just stunning.

Chantilly had been developed initially on a small island in the marsh area.  After significant efforts of the de Montmorency family since the 16th century and then reconstruction by the due d'Aumale, Before the death of due d'Aumale in 1897, he bequeathed Chantilly and his collections to the Institut de France.  Chantilly is a master show piece for the French arts and cultures.  I will  compare Chantilly to Versailles and Louvre. 

(The Grand Chateau of Chantilly)

(Beautiful French garden with fountains and waterways)

(Status of hunting dogs guarding the chateau entrance)

What impressed me most is not its architectural beauty, it is the cultural artifacts kept in Chantilly.  It is home of the Conde Museum which has beautiful gallery of paintings.  Its rich collections of French, Italian, Flemish and German art works from the 15th to 19th centuries are only next to the Louvre Museum.

(The art gallery exhibits many great European paintings)



(The famous painting of Raphael - The Three Graces)

(Eugene Fromentin's Hunting for Heron)

(Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres's Venus Anadyomene)

Chantilly also has invaluable collections of illuminated manuscripts and rare books.  It has maintained a professional team to manage its great library and archives. 

(The Library)

(Professional archives team at work)

Besides arts and cultural works, Chantilly also has the Grand Stables.  Its famous equestrian training and house demonstrations bring further fame to the Chantilly.  If you are in Paris, do not spend all your time inside the city for its great food and leisurely goods.  Chantilly is just an hour ride from Paris.

(The Grand Stables and racing course)

Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and Carcassonne : romantic medieval towns in south France

Europe has many beautiful medieval towns.  When I have more leisure time, I like to visit these historical towns better than big cities. Recently, my wife and I spent about a week in south France.  We enjoyed our stay in medieval towns of Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and Carcassonne.

There are few common characters about these medieval towns. Unlike modern cities, they have much smaller population of about several hundreds or thousands. Before entering the towns, you will first come across their protective walls.  In the medieval time, the protective walls and gates were necessary to protect the towns against external threats.  Many of these walls may have been pulled down for expansion in modern time.   

(Avignon with its walls)

(Entering the walled-town Carcassonne through its gate)

The protective walls provided safety to medieval town folks.  However, they also limited their space for housing and expansion.  When you travel to these medieval towns, you will find their streets are quite narrow.  Houses are clustered closely together.  One way to navigate these medieval towns is to locate their town squares.  Town squares are used by the town folks for trades and social gatherings.  Nowadays, cafes and restaurants are opened on the sides of town squares.  You can enjoy yourself in one of these cafes and watch the activities around.

(Former corn exchange near town square of Aix-en-Provence)

Fountains or memorial statuses are common architectural structures in the town squares.  Town halls and churches are within short walk from the squares.  If you get lost inside the towns, you can ask directions for the town squares.  You can then re-orientate yourself from there.

(Fountain in town square of Aix-en-Provence)

Within the towns, many old buildings are converted into small hotels, shops and restaurants.  Tourist business provides employment to the town folks and nearby population.  Local economy of these historical towns has been supported by tourists.

For more than a century in the medieval time, Avignon was the seat of papacy instead of Rome.  When you travel there, you will not miss the impressive Gothic papacy palace.  It is a walled palace within the walled medieval town of Avignon.


(The Palais des Papes in Avignon)

 
Aix-en-Provence had been the provincial capital of Provence.  It was also the trading center for its agricultural economy in the medieval time.  Its historical corn exchange was located in the town square.  Remember to look it up when you are there.

Carcassonne had been an important outpost since the Roman time.  It also lied in the trade route between Iberia and France.  Even you travel there nowadays, you can still feel the Iberian cultural influence.  You can find good Spainish wines and food there.

(Spanish seafood rice in a hugh pan)